How to properly prune California native plants

County Master Gardener President Carol Holliman - Official Website
County Master Gardener President Carol Holliman - Official Website
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Pruning California native plants requires a different approach than pruning non-native species, according to Laurie McGonagill, UC Master Gardener of Placer County. She emphasizes that “the saying that pruning is an art as well as a science is especially true when applied to California native plants.” Unlike many common landscape plants, native species benefit from careful and limited trimming at the proper time, rather than constant shaping or shearing.

McGonagill notes that California natives have two dormant periods—summer and mid-winter—which are the most beneficial times for pruning. Pruning in late fall or early winter can stimulate new growth that may not survive cold weather and also removes important pollinator habitat. She recommends waiting until mid to late winter for most pruning tasks, though removing stalks from herbaceous perennials in summer can encourage additional blooms.

General guidelines include removing dead or diseased growth at any time unless the plant is frost-sensitive, eliminating crossing limbs, improving air flow and light penetration, promoting good branch structure in young shrubs and trees, and avoiding pruning during wet weather to reduce infection risk.

For specific plant groups:
– Evergreen shrubs such as Ceanothus (California lilac), Frangula californica (coffeeberry), Cercocarpus betuloides (mountain mahogany), and Arctostaphylos (manzanita) should be pruned after flowering. McGonagill cautions: “Use a light hand with manzanita as there is no regrowth at a limb that is removed.”
– Broadleaf evergreens like oaks, madrone, bay laurel, and toyon are best pruned in late summer.
– Grasses such as Muhlenbergia rigens (deer grass) can be trimmed nearly to the ground every other year in late summer.
– Perennials and subshrubs like Epilobium canum (California fuchsia), Romneya coulteri (Matilija poppy), Verbena lilacina ‘De La Mina’ (lilac verbena), penstemon, buckwheat, and salvia should be cut back almost to the ground in late fall or winter.
– Deciduous plants including Aesculus californica (buckeye), Ribes species (currant/gooseberry), Lonicera hispidula (honeysuckle), Philadelphus lewisii (mock orange), Calycanthus occidentalis (Western spice bush), Vitis californica (grape), Clematis lasianthus (pipestem clematis), and Rosa californica (wild rose) are best pruned in mid to late winter. McGonagill adds: “Keep as much of the wild rose as possible since the brush and rose hips are important habitat and food for birds and other pollinators.” An exception is Cercis occidentalis (Western redbud), which should be pruned after flowering.
– Some species such as Baccharis pilularis (coyote bush), Carpenteria californica (bush anemone), and western redbud can be coppiced—cut to the ground—to rejuvenate them. This technique mimics natural wildfire effects but should only be used sparingly on mature plants.

McGonagill encourages gardeners: “Learn by doing and don’t be afraid to experiment!” She reminds readers that native plants are adapted to challenging conditions with little need for fertilizer or regular water once established. When uncertain about how or when to prune, she suggests mimicking nature.

Further guidance on this topic can be found through resources provided by Marin Master Gardeners at UCANR (link); advice from San Joaquin Master Gardeners (link); and information from the California Native Plant Society (link).



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